Tools:

For the Crank Shaft Pulley;
36mm Spanner (Ring or Open) or low profile socket (I used a large
adjustable)

To lock the Injection pump;
5mm rod (the shank of a drill will do)

Plus a set of spanners & socket set. (mainly 17mm, 19mm & 13mm)

Remove the plastic timing belt cover.

Slacken off the alternator & remove the Alt/Water Pump Belt.

To remove the large pulley from the crankshaft you will need to lock
it. Putting it in gear isn't any good. Fiat use a special tool, but if
you turn the engine back a bit you will find that you can slot a large
screwdriver tho' the timing position indicator window into one of the
slots were the clutch is meets the fly wheel. Then using a 36mm
spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt give it a few sharp hammer blows
to shock the big bolt free.
Once the bolt is off, take out the screwdriver & position the engine
to TDC.

Remove the lower metal timing belt cover.
Remove the upper belt idler wheel (to untension the belt)
Remove old belt.
Replace the upper belt idler wheel



Now the tricky bits:
The belt is tensioned by a spring loaded plunger pushing on a swinging
arm which carries the tensioning wheel.
To get the new belt on you will need to retract the plunger into its
carrier & temporarily lock it in. Fiat have a special tool for this.
However if you put the locking nut (removed when you took off the
metal cover) back on and a suitable lever you should, in stages, get
the plunger retracted, locking it each time with the nut. Its not easy
as you need a bit of muscle, working from underneath, one hand on the
lever & the other on the ring spanner to lock the nut.Like I said,
don't try to get it right in in one go because you will need to
re-position the lever several times.

Lock the injector pump by putting the 5mm drill shank thro' the Cog
timing hole & push it into the similar hole in the block (you can do
this by rocking the cog back & forward around the 6 o'clock position
till the drill pops in.

Now you can put the new belt on. Make sure there is no slack between
the camshaft, injector pump & crankshaft (in that order as the engine
rotates clockwise with the crankshaft pulling the belt round) so that
all the available slack is on the tensioned side.

I must admit I had great problems getting enough slack to get the belt
over the tensioner wheel & in the end resorted to taking off the idler
wheel, backing the camshaft a notch & gathering the slack at the idler
which is easier to put back on. Tho' in took a few tries to get the
marks aligned properly. It also helps if you can get a helper to hold
the belt on the crankshaft cog while you're doing this as the belt has
a tendency to drop off the cog & then turn the crankshaft as you get
slack between it & the injector pump cog.

Once its on, rotate the engine a couple of times to check the marks
line up OK, then remove the tensioner locking nut, so the plunger will
take up all the slack. Rotate the engine & re-check the alignment.

Replace the lower metal cover & tighten the tensioner locking nut to
the correct torque & replace the plastic cover.


Tips:
Make sure you have the correct belt as the Turbo & Non-Turbo ones are
slightly different lengths, The Motor Factors gave me the wrong one
first time round.

Once you have found the TDC marks it is a good idea to highlight them
with white paint so they are easy to find later. The main one for the
crankshaft is on the fly wheel & can be seen thro' the little window
provided on top of the flywheel/clutch housing. There is also a notch
on the crankshaft pulley at 3 o'clock & a hole in the pulley which
lines up (a similar fashion as the injector pump) with a corresponding
hole in the metal timing belt cover at 6 o'clock. The camshaft timing
marks are at 12 o'clock & are a notch on the pulley & pointer mark on
the camshaft housing. You could also mark the top of the injector pump
cog so that it is easy to see when the cambelt is on, this will make
it easier to check the timing is correct after the belt is fitted &
the engine rotated a couple of times when you've finished.

It might be a good idea to change the Alt/Water Pump Belt at the same
time as you have to take it off.

Check the condition of the crankshaft oil seal, if its in anyway
suspect(leaking) it would be a good idea to change it at the same
time, they only cost about £8 but it saves going thro' the above
procedure all over again.
The extra tension of the new cambelt can slightly re-align the
crankshaft & aggravate the leak. (Which is the problem I now have !)