These vans are very prone to rust, one of the major areas are the sills underneath the doors. The design of these vans is such that the front wheels throw up mud & spray straight up into purpose built holes underneath the inner sills. So, if you don't do anything else, FIT MUD FLAPS on the front wheels!
I have made & fitted cover plates for mine after having to replace most of the entire sill assembly.
Members of the Hymer Club have been informed in their newsletter that vibration to the Speedo cable causes one of the seals to suffer damage, thereby allowing oil to seep through from the gearbox. A support bracket for the Peugeot Talbot range (Fiat is apparently different) is available: ask your dealer.
Part numbers for Peugeot are 2650-12 (bracket), 6932-43 (nut) and 6958-60 (washer). For Citroen the numbers are the same but the hyphen is moved one place to the left!
There is also said to be a bracket available from Van Bitz of Taunton Tel: 01823 321992.
Topping up the oil in the gearbox should not be done thro' the dipstick hole, but thro' the proper filler hole & by taking out the reversing light switch. The reason being that the gearbox and differential are in different voids( you will notice that they have two separate drain plugs). When I had my gearbox reconditioned they got round the problem (they said) by overfilling & then draining some off (except they forgot to do the draining bit & there was much oil everywhere by the time I got home!).
Topping up is awkward due to the confined spaces. I use a Castrol squeezy bottle with a length of tubing pushed in to it. The tubing I obtained from an old chrome shower flexible hose by removing the outside sheath and ends, it's just the right size to push in to the Castrol bottle.
Another thing to be aware of is that sulphur is the EP component in some oils & this can attack the bronze bushes used in Fiat gearboxes.
At the moment I am still using the oil that Delfin Designs put in when they modified the gearbox linkage. It is their own spec & includes PTFE. I am inclined to try a Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic gear oil when I find one that suits, Millers do some but I have not been able to find any locally.
Do not renew with the maker's supply but purchase one of 1.25" to 1.5", in length, giving 5/8" to 3/4" of plain shaft. This gives more support and provides a tighter fit, thereby taking up some of the wear.
Remember that the bolt must be of hardened quality and renew the Symons lock nut as well. This will give a more positive feel to the gear change. Grease well.
For a more ideal solution get the whole lot replaced by a custom made gear linkage, designed & fitted by Derek Findlay (Delfin Designs) for under £200. The Address is 87 Merley Ways, Wimborne, Dorset. BH21 1QW. Tel: 01202 840749. There is camp site near by for those who have far to come ask Derek for the location.
If there is a lot of engine movement change the rear mounting (on the gearbox), this helped on mine. Changing all the mounts is obviously the way to go. (See the section on exhausts).
Take the floor mounted gear lever gaiter plate off and check the security of the two bolts underneath.
Also check the security of the pinch bolt located on the top of the gearbox.
Early vehicles:
Long Rod: 350mm
Short Rod: 155mm
Later vehicles:
Long Rod: 159 mm
Short Rod: 111 mm
For later vehicles if you add 20 mm, this will give an overall length so a simple gauge can be made up possibly using some bits of wood sliding on each other.
Note: Adjusting the rods will not make poor gear change better unless it had been adjusted so that the gear stick is unable to achieve its max. travel. I.E. the gear stick cannot move far enough to say put it in 5th/Reverse or 1st/2nd. To adjust the rods, prise off both ball joints when the box is in neutral, make sure the plunger is in the mid position, hold the gear stick in its central position in the cab (I.E. in the neutral between 3rd & 4th) & adjust the rods to click naturally onto the ball joints, don't forget to replace the retainers. While you are doing this check the ball joints for wear, there should be very little or no play, if there is, buy new ones.
Hanover Transmissions of Aldershot,Hants Tel: 01252 310413
SVO Ltd of Calne, Wilts. Tel: 01249 815141 (Also power steering conversions)
Another cause of failure is that the joint of the down pipe to manifold is seized, either due to over tightening the nuts or corrosion. The nuts compress springs & there should be a 22mm of spring showing, the joint cone should also be lubricated with a special high temp. grease called Moly Combin (Peugeot Part No.9730-95). . Another grease recommended in the Peter Russek Manual is "Gripcott" but I have never been able to track down either. I think a smear of copper grease is probably sufficient. It has also been suggested that some 'unbranded' exhausts fracture more easily than the original ones. Mine seemed to last about two years before fracturing, but now I have welded extra bracing on the boxes, which seems to work quite well.
Stainless Steel Exhaust Sources
Stainless Exhaust Specialists, Unit 1, Prospect Court, Nunn Close, Huthwaite NG12 2HW(01623 552262). This address is within three miles of Ml junction 28.
JP Exhausts of Old School House, Brook Street, Macclesfield SK1 1 7AW (01625 619916)
Squirting WD40, with the red nozzle attached, between the small gaps in the leaf springs, the squeaking stops immediately and the cure lasts months.
Squeaking springs, 2 (Medium method)
Grease in between the spring leaves.
Jack up the vehicle, take off a wheel and force a screwdriver between the leaves to enable grease (Castrol recommend M53) to be pushed into the gap. This gives about six months' cure and, after couple more treatments, it should last a year
Squeaking springs, 3 (Complicated method)
This cure was effected by a Fiat agent. Apparently, the noise is caused by the rubbing of the end section of the second leaf against the main leaf spring and the solution was as follows.
Materials required
Loctite 495 Adhesive and Loctite Primer 770. 4 off 4Ox5O mm Teflon sheet, 1 mm thick.
Procedure
1. Base vehicle on lift.
2. Separate main leaf and second leaf with a lever.
3. Clean thoroughly surfaces of springs which contact.
4. Apply Loctite Primer to lower surface of main leaf.
5. Sand one side of Teflon and apply Loctite Primer.
6. Allow Primer to dry and apply Adhesive to Teflon.
7. Insert Teflon between leaves of spring, ensuring that about half of it (25 mm) projects from second leaf.
8. Remove lever. Repeat at other end and on other spring.
9. Leave unmoved for at least 8 hours. Trim excess Teflon.
... and check the plugs!
There appears to be a problem with some of the earlier Boxers. Rain water drips on to the top of the battery on the left, the distributor and spark plugs in the centre and the air filter to the right (as you look at them).
There is a modification available from Peugeot dealers which is supposed to divert water away from the electrical cables and gear box but it isn't entirely successful because the pipe needs to be just a few inches longer to be fully effective. Part No. is 6448F2 (Tube Drain).
Seepage points to the outer sides of the bonnet hinges need to be sealed. Home-made covers - inverted seed trays without any holes in them fixed strategically over the vulnerable parts such as the top of the battery do offer a temporary solution.
Have you checked your spark plugs lately? It may well be worth verifying that you can indeed remove them should the need arise. An owner noticed water in the socket of the number one spark plug - it had seeped underneath the rubber protection cover. The screw thread had become rusty and jammed.
Diesel glow plugs are also vulnerable to siezing, and its an expensive business if they shear off, so use plenty of penetrating oil (and patience).
Warm feet, I
Check the fan
The blades are glued to the motor. The high surface area of the fan blades and high motor torque had caused the glue joint to break down and the fan blades to slip on the motor shaft.
To overcome this problem, drill a 2 mm hole through the fan and motor shaft and fit a split pin to lock them together. Now the motor and fan blades are running at the same speed with a much improved air velocity
Warm feet, 2
Unclip the heater duct to the passenger side vent and take apart the duct at the joint. Drill four or five holes, 6 to 9 mm diameter on the underside of the duct and fix it all back again.
Regulate the amount of air to the feet by adjusting the side vent (vent fully open = minimum air to feet, vent fully shut = maximum air to feet).
Fuel tanks should whine
Regarding the whining noise emanating from the fuel filler cap on some vehicles . An owner regularly experienced the problem on a Symphony and, in common with most people, originally attributed it to a semi-vacuum being created in the fuel tank as a result of usage.
The whining/mooing noise always occurred after a reasonable run and could be eliminated by briefly removing the fuel filler cap. This was accompanied by a rush of air and, not infrequently, by a noise which sounded as though the sides of the tank were restoring themselves to some different shape. Startling stuff!
At this point he decided not to worry about it any further but on one occasion made an interesting observation whilst removing the filler cap for the purpose of refuelling. What he had always believed was an inrush of air replacing a semi-vacuum was in fact an outflow of air and the cap was being effectively blown back into his hand at the point of release from the filler neck.
This put a new complexion on the matter and raised a different set of questions. he would like to know a lot more about the fuel arrangements. he can't believe that a tank is being deliberately pressurized as a means of delivering fuel to the engine. With the inevitable fuel/vapour mixture which would occur in this exhaustion it seems that a potentially dangerous situation is present. He has had the vehicle serviced, & made a point of requesting a proper check on the fuel tank and has been advised, by the dealership, that no fault exists. He can only conclude that these vehicles are designed to whine
The pressure in the tank is caused by a small one way valve on the end of a tube near the front of the fuel tank, if your tank does not pressurize, check the valve is present and working correctly.
Front Brake Pad Renewal
The front brakes on this model are of a sliding calliper design and are actually quite easy to service (but see below).
Firstly, loosen the wheel nuts and raise the front of the vehicle. Secure it with axle stands and remove the wheels. At the back of the calliper you will find two bolts with rubber boots. You need to remove the lower bolt by holding the larger nut (1 5 mm AF) with a spanner while you remove the bolt.
Once this is done you can swing the calliper up and remove the pads. Press the piston gently but firmly back into the calliper and fit the new pads. Swing the calliper back to its normal position and replace the bolt with the one in the kit of pads.
Most importantly, remember to pump the brake pedal a few times before driving the vehicle. This brings the pads into contact with the discs; failure to do this may cause an accident !
Rear Brake Drum Removal
Unscrew the two wheel locating pins & the drum should slide off the stub axle. If it sticks screw three bolts into the holes in the drum (these threads are metric fine & if you don't have any to hand, then the bolts securing the seat pedestal can be 'borrowed' DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THEM AFTER USE !
Talbot Express Recall
Talbot Express vehicles built between 1991 and 1993 have been the subject of a recall. Some passenger seat pedestals may have been incorrectly attached to the vehicle floor; this could result in the seat detaching from the floor in an accident.
Owners of affected vehicles should have been advised but if nothing has been heard a check should be made with your Peugeot Talbot dealer.
Fiat Ducato Recall
Some early Fiats have been recalled to fix a potential problem with the steering rack cage bearings.
Seat Pedestal Bolts
The length of these bolts is critical, the inner pairs are right above the fuel tank, the clearance is about 1 cm from tank to floor which means that over-length bolts can go straight thro' the tank (I know 'cause I did it !)
Seat Belt Warning
Later Boxers etc. use a gas filled bulb to torsion the seat belts in
the event of a crash. Care should be taken when working near to the seat
belts as it is thought that sudden impacts or the use of vibrating air
tools could trigger the bulb. Although this is not dangerous it is very
expensive to get replaced.
If you ever travel to France, it appears you may be able to buy one quite cheaply at a Leclerc supermarket for around 35FF published by L'Expert Automobile (in french of course). I have brought one mail order, its Ok but doesn't cover the later Fiat diesel engine (Belt driven overhead cam). The cost in sterling was about £25 (Inc. everything) it is in paper back & has wiring diagrams, the photos are a bit small, but is better than nothing & is very comprehensive .
You can now buy these on the web: http://www.lexpert-automobile.com/revues_techniques/marques.htm
You could also try a wanted ad in magazines such as MMM.
Peter Russek Publications Tel: 01494 440829 has produced a book in their Pocket Mechanic series covering The older, from 1982, (Not Boxer) Citroen C25, Fiat Ducato & Talbot Express. Engines covered are 1.9D (D9B-XUD) & 2.5
(U25-661/U25-673) with the belt driven camshaft (No petrol versions).
These books don't cover gearbox or CV joint overhaul. The link is: http://www.russek-manuals.co.uk/
Warning: Having now obtained both the above manuals I have found
that they still do not cover my engine (I.E) The Fiat 2.5D with the overhead
camshaft. The 2.5D engines are pushrod (Belt driven for Peter Russek's
& Gear/Belt driven for L'Expert).